Finisterre to Muxia along the Costa da Morte (Coast of Death) called this because of the high loss of life in shipwrecks from days gone by and more recently from oil spills. It is hard to find words that do justice to the beauty of the coast and to this part of the walk. The serenity of this section was a welcome change from the busyness of Finisterre. There were many small villages along the way but not one cafe. Lots of farm land, wandering dogs and thin cats. It was an easy walk with only one hill to speak of, green forest and the occasional cow. I did make a wrong turn just a few km from town. After crossing a small creek while balancing on a fallen tree (walking sticks are wonderful) I soon realized that the field I was in was not the path. I could see signs of trails so I trekked on. After climbing over a stonewall which I realized might not have been the best idea out in the middle of nowhere, I decided I was in too deep now to turn around. It occurred to me that the trails I saw may have been animal trails, not human's, as they got smaller with every step. After climbing over a second stonewall I was now in a field of thorny bushes, fortunately wearing long pants. Almost there now, one more wall and I was on the road. Which road I wasn't sure but a road nonetheless. A farmer in a nearby field directed me (in Spanish) to another road and in no time I was back on the trail.
Muxia is a small fishing village with a mix of very old stone homes and some newer buildings all mixed together. Town planning for lining up the streets has not been thought of. Each street is a different width, some big enough for cars, some not.
After performing my pilgrim chores done for the last time (hotels after this) I joined some pilgrims for cafe con leche at the seaside. Even though we had only passed on the walk, we sit together as old friends, very enjoyable. My reputation as a fast walker continues and a German couple describe my walking style as that of a sewing machine, we all laugh. The young couple are traveling with her parents who are celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary by having their 15th Camino walk, this time from Santiago to Muxia, some 120 km!
I'm off to watch the sun set. Buenos noches.
[948 km logged with the pack]
