Tuesday to Astorga - Villadangos was a noisy and difficult night's sleep in the municipal alburgue where 27 beds filled one room. I was happy to wake up early and start walking by 6:20 am. The road route was also noisy for the first 11 km walking beside a highway full of trucks so the pace was fast. Once we reached the beautiful town of Hospital de Orbigo we had a welcome one hour stop on a balcony overlooking a famous 20 arch stone bridge, 204 m long. There is barely any water running under the bridge as is the case in many of Spain's bridges, rivers seem to have dried up.
The remaining 21 km on the "walkers' route" to Astorga was a welcome change from the earlier noisy route. Astorga is a lovely city with beautiful churchs and a Gaudi church as well. The albergue had a foot bath in the courtyard to soak your feet in, filled with salt and vinegar, heavenly. To cap it off I slept blissfully for nine hours which led to....
Wednesday - 39 km. though my walking partners and I intended to go 27 km to Foncebadon we felt so good walking up the hills we decided to carry on. This meant that we passed the famous Cruz De Ferro where pilgrims lay down a stone brought from home, some say to leave your sins behind, others leave their problems. It was a moving experience. There is also a sundial there where you can stand on a brass plate and your shadow tells you the exact time.
The walk was challenging and exhilarating. El Acebo is a pleasant stone village full of wandering friendly dogs and a wonderful B&B for vegetarians. I treated myself for the night and am happily stuffed after a spectacular meal.
Buenos noches.
Wednesday, 19 September 2012
Monday, 17 September 2012
The Meseta to the Mountains
Hola! Thanks for your concern about my whereabouts. I am fit and well. I have been walking in the Meseta, in fairly remote locations without any wifi at the alburgues I have stayed in. I occasionally had wifi in cafes but inevitably wound up speaking to other pilgrims with no time to blog. For the record this is where I've been since Fromista: Carrion de Los Condes - 23 km, Terradillos de las Templarios - 28 km, Calzadillo de Los Hermandillos - 29 km, Puente Villarente - 30 km, Villadangos del Paramo 36 km.
For the most part the Meseta has been flat and hot, though the mornings are cool requiring coats and gloves by the afternoon it can be very hot. Last Friday one of my walking partners suddenly became injured with a swollen area on the front of her leg near her foot. By the time we stopped 3 km from our rest stop she couldn't walk anymore. I stayed with her while another pilgrim went to drop his bag and come back for hers. Just as we were set to hobble on to the albergue, holding Annika upright, Camino luck struck again and a van pulled up that carries pilgrim backpacks for weary pilgrims (8€ a day). The driver agreed to take Annika and her pack to the rest stop. Unfortunately she has not recovered and has had to taxi, train, walk a little and bus since then.
On Saturday morning I walked to Sahagun and spent some time touring the small city and the Saturday morning market. After a pleasant stroll around I set off around 11:30 am for the remaining 16 km walk. I chose the Roman Route for "fit" walkers over the easier Road Route (how could I resist). for 9 km in baking sun I traversed a large rocky stretch of Roman Route. Loose large stones rolling under your feet while carrying a backpack is, I discovered, a challenge. When I reached the Municipal albergue a kind man greeted me with a glass of cold lemonade. I chugged it in 2 seconds flat, he laughed and poured me another. After lifting my backpack off me he was kind enough to massage my shoulders. Though I had wanted to find out if they had wifi before I took a bed I was by now in love with the place and ready to stay. The small town of 86 people celebrated a wedding that night with, I think, all 86 people at the wedding. Fireworks and lots of fire crackers marked the occasion. It was a delight.
I set off in the morning for a continuation of the Roman Road, 24 km of loose large rocks, no houses, no villages, just fields. Fortunately I met TJ and Tessa from Calgary and walked a good deal of the way with them. I was never so happy to reach concrete in my life. I have done the Roman Road and survived, I plan to never do it again :-). The next 6 km were a piece of cake once I had my cafe con leche.
I will be heading toward Astorga tomorrow and back to the mountains. I'll be happy to do some climbing again. I've logged over 500km and somehow I can't really fathom that. I look at a map of Spain and can hardly believe I've walked that far. The routine of the day is pleasant and familiar.
Buenos noches. I wish you all well.
For the most part the Meseta has been flat and hot, though the mornings are cool requiring coats and gloves by the afternoon it can be very hot. Last Friday one of my walking partners suddenly became injured with a swollen area on the front of her leg near her foot. By the time we stopped 3 km from our rest stop she couldn't walk anymore. I stayed with her while another pilgrim went to drop his bag and come back for hers. Just as we were set to hobble on to the albergue, holding Annika upright, Camino luck struck again and a van pulled up that carries pilgrim backpacks for weary pilgrims (8€ a day). The driver agreed to take Annika and her pack to the rest stop. Unfortunately she has not recovered and has had to taxi, train, walk a little and bus since then.
On Saturday morning I walked to Sahagun and spent some time touring the small city and the Saturday morning market. After a pleasant stroll around I set off around 11:30 am for the remaining 16 km walk. I chose the Roman Route for "fit" walkers over the easier Road Route (how could I resist). for 9 km in baking sun I traversed a large rocky stretch of Roman Route. Loose large stones rolling under your feet while carrying a backpack is, I discovered, a challenge. When I reached the Municipal albergue a kind man greeted me with a glass of cold lemonade. I chugged it in 2 seconds flat, he laughed and poured me another. After lifting my backpack off me he was kind enough to massage my shoulders. Though I had wanted to find out if they had wifi before I took a bed I was by now in love with the place and ready to stay. The small town of 86 people celebrated a wedding that night with, I think, all 86 people at the wedding. Fireworks and lots of fire crackers marked the occasion. It was a delight.
I set off in the morning for a continuation of the Roman Road, 24 km of loose large rocks, no houses, no villages, just fields. Fortunately I met TJ and Tessa from Calgary and walked a good deal of the way with them. I was never so happy to reach concrete in my life. I have done the Roman Road and survived, I plan to never do it again :-). The next 6 km were a piece of cake once I had my cafe con leche.
I will be heading toward Astorga tomorrow and back to the mountains. I'll be happy to do some climbing again. I've logged over 500km and somehow I can't really fathom that. I look at a map of Spain and can hardly believe I've walked that far. The routine of the day is pleasant and familiar.
Buenos noches. I wish you all well.
Wednesday, 12 September 2012
Burgos 42km-Hontanas 34km-Formista 36.7 km
Hola! Another good day of walking. Three days in a row of fairly high mileage.
Monday - I left Villafranca after 8:00 am and a glorious sleep-in I headed happily up a big hill for a 12 km forest hike to San Juan de Ortega. On the way I met Salvatore and his friend. He had helped me with a blister and now he needed food, having eaten too little in the morning. I was able to share crackers and peanut butter, they were very grateful. It felt good to return a good deed.
I had intended to walk about 25 km but couldn't find the alburgue that I had agreed to meet some friends at. I pressed on, unsure if I was in the right place heading into a large city called Burgos another 15 km at least. A stroke of Camino luck and I met a woman from a couple of days ago, we continued the adventure together. Somehow we missed the sought after riverview road and instead slogged through back alleys and abandoned buildings, wondering at times if someone had played a joke and painted yellow arrows (Camino signs). With sore feet we stopped on a grass verge, covered in dust and looking somewhat out of place in the city landscape. When we finally reached the municipal alburgue which houses 178 pilgrims we were shocked to learn that it was full. More Camino luck and I met two other pilgrims I know from a few days ago and we shared a room in a nearby hostel - shower, laundry, dinner and bed.
Tuesday - my new roommates / walking partners and I headed out of Burgos around 6:30 am. Though my walking partners are very fit and very fast, we do stop regularly for a cafe con leche and a smoke... I partake in the former, not the latter. I enjoyed soaking my feet in a famous spring at Arroya San Bol, thought to heal your blisters for the balance of the Camino. The ice cold water made my feet feel divine. Arriving in Hontanas felt like arriving at a big party. The small town was alive with excited pilgrim's happy to be done their walk and energetic Italian cyclists that were hooting and howling for at least an hour. Henri has a gps that noted the 34 km distance. I slept well.
Wednesday - the highlight of today was 1005 m 12% grade hill. Great workout and a great view. The pack feels good now, and the walking is part of the routine. 36.7 km
Tomorrow will be a less than 20 km day, this time for sure. :-)
P.s. feet are now doing well. Cross your fingers for me that it stays that way :-) Buen Camino
Monday - I left Villafranca after 8:00 am and a glorious sleep-in I headed happily up a big hill for a 12 km forest hike to San Juan de Ortega. On the way I met Salvatore and his friend. He had helped me with a blister and now he needed food, having eaten too little in the morning. I was able to share crackers and peanut butter, they were very grateful. It felt good to return a good deed.
I had intended to walk about 25 km but couldn't find the alburgue that I had agreed to meet some friends at. I pressed on, unsure if I was in the right place heading into a large city called Burgos another 15 km at least. A stroke of Camino luck and I met a woman from a couple of days ago, we continued the adventure together. Somehow we missed the sought after riverview road and instead slogged through back alleys and abandoned buildings, wondering at times if someone had played a joke and painted yellow arrows (Camino signs). With sore feet we stopped on a grass verge, covered in dust and looking somewhat out of place in the city landscape. When we finally reached the municipal alburgue which houses 178 pilgrims we were shocked to learn that it was full. More Camino luck and I met two other pilgrims I know from a few days ago and we shared a room in a nearby hostel - shower, laundry, dinner and bed.
Tuesday - my new roommates / walking partners and I headed out of Burgos around 6:30 am. Though my walking partners are very fit and very fast, we do stop regularly for a cafe con leche and a smoke... I partake in the former, not the latter. I enjoyed soaking my feet in a famous spring at Arroya San Bol, thought to heal your blisters for the balance of the Camino. The ice cold water made my feet feel divine. Arriving in Hontanas felt like arriving at a big party. The small town was alive with excited pilgrim's happy to be done their walk and energetic Italian cyclists that were hooting and howling for at least an hour. Henri has a gps that noted the 34 km distance. I slept well.
Wednesday - the highlight of today was 1005 m 12% grade hill. Great workout and a great view. The pack feels good now, and the walking is part of the routine. 36.7 km
Tomorrow will be a less than 20 km day, this time for sure. :-)
P.s. feet are now doing well. Cross your fingers for me that it stays that way :-) Buen Camino
Tuesday, 11 September 2012
Quick update on Wednesday morning
Hola! I'm having a quick morning coffe break with wifi and thought I would give you a quick update. On Monday I walked 42 km to Borgos arriving around 4:30 pm to find the alburgue full fortunately I met two pilgrim's to share a room with. Yesterday we walked to Hontonas 34 km. Up at 5:30 this morning and heading to Fromista 36 km away. I have found two pilgrims that walk the same pace, Henri from Switzerland and Anika from Sweden. We have a big climb coming up today. I'm enjoying the walking, the company and the general routine of the day. Buena Camino. Hope to get wifi later.
Sunday, 9 September 2012
2 of 2 posts -Villafranca 28 km Sunday
Hola! I had an excellent sleep and an excellent walk today. Though I planned to walk only 20 km I can't seem to stop myself and continued on for 28 km. My blister is better but not perfect. After shower and laundry I met a pilgrim that I keep seeing but haven't spoken to before. We shared our "what's hurting" stories. He has experience with blisters and was kind enough to tend to mine. He used the scissors from my small knife, applied antiseptic to the blades before cutting open the new blister to drain it. All of this done while drinking a cafe con leche (coffee with hot milk) in the bar adjacent to the alburgue. He put a fresh Compeed on my toe and it feels much better. I will give him a package of Biofreeze in exchange for his kindness, he has a sore knee.
I have met many new friends over the past two days, from Germany, Holland, Switzerland, New Zealand and Denmark. Thankfully for me, many speak English and others translate when necessary. I keep seeing a young man from France, he called me over today to take a picture of us huddled together. Two days ago when I passed him he said "Isn't it dangerous for your body to be walking so fast?" I laughed and told him I felt great.
I still have dinner to enjoy and an evening to relax. Thanks to all for walking with me on this journey. I thought of you all yesterday when my walk was difficult, willing me on to continue. Many thanks.
I have met many new friends over the past two days, from Germany, Holland, Switzerland, New Zealand and Denmark. Thankfully for me, many speak English and others translate when necessary. I keep seeing a young man from France, he called me over today to take a picture of us huddled together. Two days ago when I passed him he said "Isn't it dangerous for your body to be walking so fast?" I laughed and told him I felt great.
I still have dinner to enjoy and an evening to relax. Thanks to all for walking with me on this journey. I thought of you all yesterday when my walk was difficult, willing me on to continue. Many thanks.
1 of 2 posts - Sept 8 Granon -28 km + 1 km
I missed wifi yesterday hence 2 posts today. Saturday - a difficult day.
Though Spain sleeps from 3:00 -5:00 pm, apparently on Friday nights in Nejera many are awake from 3:00 -5:00 am. I wake early and feel "off " right from the beginning. I left the alburgue just before 7:00 am, one of the last pilgrims to leave. I wandered the streets looking for Camino signs and returned back to the alburgue twenty minutes later to ask for help. Two kind pilgrims come out in their stocking feet to show me the sign I missed. My walk feels different today, my pace is good but for the first time it feels like work. As I approach Santo Domingo famous for a 12th century cathedral and a legend involving a cock & hen I see large factories with only one car, many businesses closed on a Saturday (?). Houses look derelict and I wonder if I'm in a ghost town. I paid 2.50€ to wander around the cathedral and am 2 kilometers outside town before I realize that I was so taken with the architecture and artifacts that I completely forgot to look for the live cock & hen that is on display there. By now the sun is very hot. I mop the perspiration from my face several times and it lifts my spirits to think of Pedro and Mario smiling at the end of a run, I'm perspiring as much as they do.
This day, this walk, feels like a pilgrimage, I'm tired, I'm hurting and I'm hot and uncomfortable.
My toes on both feet start to feel like they are splitting open on the bottom. With each step on the gravel road an errant stone can cause sharp pain. I wonder if I should take my shoes off to look but decide against it, afraid of what I might see and knowing that there is nothing to be done about it anyway. By the time I reach Granon I am so happy that the church has space for me I consider throwing my self at the hospilatero's feet in gratitude but thankfully have enough sense left that I realize that would be overly dramatic. After a shower and laundry I finally look at my feet to discover my first ever blister, one in full bloom on the bottom of my toe and a second threatening on the other foot.
Two pilgrims tend to my blister, popping it and squeezing out the contents, then applying an antiseptic bandage from their own supply. This may make you squeamish to read but I'm taken with the kindness of strangers performing this very personal task.
We make dinner together, for 35, I attend my first catholic mass, sing for supper (no kidding) in front of 50 including onlookers from the town. As the sole Canadian I had to sing two songs solo. First I choose "Oh Canada" because at that moment every song I have ever known leaves my head, the second time I sing a rousing version of "if you are happy and you know it, clap your hands." Everyone seems to know it and joins in enthusiastically. My difficult day ends well. Such is the Camino.
Friday, 7 September 2012
Logrono to Najera - 30 km
Hola! Great walk today after a great night's sleep and a little sleep-in I began my walk at 7:35 am. I like to walk quickly and this seems to have given me a bit of a reputation among the pilgrims. I met a few people along the way that said, "Oh, you must be that petite woman from Canada who walks quickly." (I explain that I'm a Roadrunner but I'm not sure everyone gets it.) So far so good, I felt great today, the pack seems good, well I should say my back is holding up with the weight.
Logrono is a large city and for the first time on this trip I felt just a little uneasy last night walking around. Signs of poverty in the old city and drug use are evident, people loiter with nothing else to do. The walk out of the city, mostly through parkland was pleasant. I missed the first coffee stop and wound up trekking 21 km before stopping for a delicious cafe con leche, it was so good and I'd waited so long I ordered two before walking the next 9 km to Nejere.
I see a lot of private vegetable gardens and notice that the fruit I buy daily is mostly grown locally. As an added bonus, unlike at home, the fruit size and color is not uniform indicating that it has not been bred to be the look-a-like assembly line fruit we have in North American supermarkets. It tastes great and I suspect it has been grown naturally.
A delicous paella dinner (thanks for the recommendation Terri) at a picturesque patio on the riverside, complete with live music and the good company of a Texan, an Aussie and a couple from South Africa rounded out a fantastic day. People share stories of their day and past travels around the world. It makes me want to travel more! Buenos noches.
Logrono is a large city and for the first time on this trip I felt just a little uneasy last night walking around. Signs of poverty in the old city and drug use are evident, people loiter with nothing else to do. The walk out of the city, mostly through parkland was pleasant. I missed the first coffee stop and wound up trekking 21 km before stopping for a delicious cafe con leche, it was so good and I'd waited so long I ordered two before walking the next 9 km to Nejere.
I see a lot of private vegetable gardens and notice that the fruit I buy daily is mostly grown locally. As an added bonus, unlike at home, the fruit size and color is not uniform indicating that it has not been bred to be the look-a-like assembly line fruit we have in North American supermarkets. It tastes great and I suspect it has been grown naturally.
A delicous paella dinner (thanks for the recommendation Terri) at a picturesque patio on the riverside, complete with live music and the good company of a Texan, an Aussie and a couple from South Africa rounded out a fantastic day. People share stories of their day and past travels around the world. It makes me want to travel more! Buenos noches.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)