Monday, 17 September 2012

The Meseta to the Mountains

Hola! Thanks for your concern about my whereabouts. I am fit and well. I have been walking in the Meseta, in fairly remote locations without any wifi at the alburgues I have stayed in. I occasionally had wifi in cafes but inevitably wound up speaking to other pilgrims with no time to blog. For the record this is where I've been since Fromista: Carrion de Los Condes - 23 km, Terradillos de las Templarios - 28 km, Calzadillo de Los Hermandillos - 29 km, Puente Villarente - 30 km, Villadangos del Paramo 36 km.
For the most part the Meseta has been flat and hot, though the mornings are cool requiring coats and gloves by the afternoon it can be very hot. Last Friday one of my walking partners suddenly became injured with a swollen area on the front of her leg near her foot. By the time we stopped 3 km from our rest stop she couldn't walk anymore. I stayed with her while another pilgrim went to drop his bag and come back for hers. Just as we were set to hobble on to the albergue, holding Annika upright, Camino luck struck again and a van pulled up that carries pilgrim backpacks for weary pilgrims (8€ a day). The driver agreed to take Annika and her pack to the rest stop. Unfortunately she has not recovered and has had to taxi, train, walk a little and bus since then.
On Saturday morning I walked to Sahagun and spent some time touring the small city and the Saturday morning market. After a pleasant stroll around I set off around 11:30 am for the remaining 16 km walk. I chose the Roman Route for "fit" walkers over the easier Road Route (how could I resist). for 9 km in baking sun I traversed a large rocky stretch of Roman Route. Loose large stones rolling under your feet while carrying a backpack is, I discovered, a challenge. When I reached the Municipal albergue a kind man greeted me with a glass of cold lemonade. I chugged it in 2 seconds flat, he laughed and poured me another. After lifting my backpack off me he was kind enough to massage my shoulders. Though I had wanted to find out if they had wifi before I took a bed I was by now in love with the place and ready to stay. The small town of 86 people celebrated a wedding that night with, I think, all 86 people at the wedding. Fireworks and lots of fire crackers marked the occasion. It was a delight.
I set off in the morning for a continuation of the Roman Road, 24 km of loose large rocks, no houses, no villages, just fields. Fortunately I met TJ and Tessa from Calgary and walked a good deal of the way with them. I was never so happy to reach concrete in my life. I have done the Roman Road and survived, I plan to never do it again :-). The next 6 km were a piece of cake once I had my cafe con leche.
I will be heading toward Astorga tomorrow and back to the mountains. I'll be happy to do some climbing again. I've logged over 500km and somehow I can't really fathom that. I look at a map of Spain and can hardly believe I've walked that far. The routine of the day is pleasant and familiar.
Buenos noches. I wish you all well.

5 comments:

  1. Bravo, Suzanne, for conquering over 500km and the Roman Road! Welcome back to the blogosphere - it's a joy to read about your adventures! Stay healthy & happy, Qi

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  2. Suzanne:
    So great to get your update and to hear that all is well. Enjoy the adventure!
    Buen Camino

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  3. Phew you're safe. I thought you had been eaten by a starting Spanish bear. I hear they're hungry these days because of recession and looking for unusual food sources... Just kidding.
    I'm glad you're back online. I look for new entries every day. I'm delighted to see you're doing so well. And happy to experience the Camino without having to work for it. ;)
    Bonne route.

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  4. Great to hear about your journey! Sorry about your fellow walker! I wish her happy speedy recovery!
    Wow what service after such a trek on the roman route! I love that you took that way. Please never say never cos you know I'm going to want to try it when we go next year haha
    Neat how in such a desolate route you meet two other Canadians! Yeehaw
    So good to read what's been going on for you. Love it!

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