Wednesday 26 September 2012

Monte do Gozo - 66 km, Santiago - 6.6 km

Tuesday - Monte de Gozo 66 km. The day started off innocently enough with the intention of walking 31 km to Arzua. The weather forecast rain during the day so my walking companion and I had decided to sleep early and rise early to miss some of the predicted rain. My head hit the pillow at 8:15 pm (Monday), in less than a minute I was fast asleep until my alarm sounded at 4:30 am. I jumped out of bed, eager to be ready on time and proudly emerged dressed and packed in ten minutes flat. It was only then that I heard the sound of pouring rain lashing against the window. Back to bed for an hour (not such a hardship) and we set off an hour later in light rain. The walk went well, up and down hills, light rain for the first 24 km and fairly heavy rain for an hour.  We landed in Arzua before noon, wet but happy.  You see where this going....  Since we were wet already and it was still quite early we decided to go 16 more kms. Not long after we started the rain began in earnest. We walked on through beautiful forest paths. Though I had expected to be among many pilgrims during the usually busy last 100 km, we practically had the walk to ourselves, very unusual. (The last 100 k is what is required to receive the Compestela.) What we didn't know was that an alburgue housing 120 pilgrims had been closed down due to the dreaded bed bugs which explained why all of the places we stopped at for a bed were full. We walked on eventually realizing that  we needed to prepare ourselves mentally for the full walk to Santiago, if we came across a place before Santiago that would only be a bonus.   Not only were there hardly any pilgrims on The Way but there were hardly any cafes or villages as I had expected as we got closer. Hungry, at 6:00 pm we came across a fancy restaurant/hotel (also full) that seemed like a perfect place to have some food to refuel for the remaining approximately 15 km walk (we weren't exactly sure where we were but knew that we were just shy of 55 km, GPS info). I reviewed the menu and ordered food, feeling lucky to have found somewhere to eat at the right time. When the waiter said the kitchen was closed - Ahhh, yes, then I remembered, I'm in Spain, it is still siesta time! A bag of chips, a pear from my pack and a hunk of two day old bread and we're on our way.
The walk was quite hilly, though I still felt strong. The occasional sharp pain in my foot and knee I took only as a small protest from the body, nothing came of it. By the time we reached a large alburgue at Monte de Gozo just on the edge of Santiago we decided to check for a bed since it was about to get dark and we didn't have a room in the city which could have meant even more unexpected mileage. Fortunately the alburgue can hold 400 people and we were happy to get a bed, have a shower and hang wet clothes anywhere we could. I slept well, with my coat on, until 7:00 am. 
Wednesday - Santiago 6.6 km 
The short walk into the city center was exciting. I stopped for two cafe con leche and a chocolate croissant on the way to receive my Compestela. Reaching the cathedral made my heart pound and I was surprised to feel such excitement as I climbed the stairs to be guided into the office where you are asked if you walked the whole way, you must show your credential containing stamps from all of the places you stayed and explain briefly why you made the walk. The kind woman asked me if it was very hard? I stumbled to answer at first because I enjoyed it so much I find it difficult to say it was hard, but then I remember feeling that the hard part was deciding to go, wondering if I could make all of the arrangements necessary to leave, figuring out how to choose and pack everything I would need for a month that was light enough for me to carry, traveling alone in a foreign country, this was the difficult part. I can't tell the woman that as I stand silent for a moment with my thoughts, so instead I say, "Yes, sometimes it was difficult" and I leave it at that. She smiled warmly and nodded, "Yes, congratulations, you've done it". I have my Compestela stowed safely in a tube and I feel proud to have received it. 
Afterwards I find a room with a single bed, my very own bathroom and a lovely small balcony that overlooks a busy square not far from the cathedral. The Mass at the cathedral was moving and emotional even though I am neither catholic nor particularly religious. I will stay here in this lovely city for two nights before making my next move. I have until Tuesday before Qi arrives to join me. 
Thanks again for coming with me on this walk.  It isn't finished as I will likely walk more before and after Qi comes. I'll keep you posted. 

5 comments:

  1. Oh those dreaded bedbugs! Again, I must say Congratulations! Are you planning to go to Finisterre?

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    1. Thank you Terri! And, yes indeed I will be walking to Finisterre, at least once, maybe twice!

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  2. Hip hip hip,hourra !

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  3. Glad you only heard about the bed bugs and did not have to experience them first hand.

    Congratulations, Suzanne, on you amazing accomplishment. Take care on the now "optional" part of your walk and enjoy Portugal.

    Nancy

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  4. I find myself emotional just reading that you made it! Holy cow, going out with a wet finale! And I would definitely have to agree you are blessed that you were unable to stay at those places with the possibility of bed bugs! Oh my!
    I do remember how emotionally straining it was for you to get prepared for this trip. I am also sure, that along your merry way there were things you discovered about yourself, that assisted to empower just who you are Suzanne. You are an amazing woman! One that just overcame one of the biggest fears but biggest dream. To travel, and at the same time walk that road. I am in awe! Bravo! I'm off to read the rest, and get caught up. A lil morning adventure for me after my big move into my new place. Hugs! Thank you for sharing this awesome journey of yours.

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