Sunday 30 September 2012

Cee - 52 km, Finisterre 19 km

Saturday - Negreira to Cee 52 km. I started my walk feeling a little miserable in the morning. I  stayed at a municipal albergue with people that I had no connection with. A group of young people that had been traveling together for weeks, a couple of quiet young men that looked like they hadn't washed their clothes in weeks and a loud man who had too much to drink (for too many days) complaining about the 'death of the Camino', criticizing pilgrims who use cell phones and listen to music. I walked through quiet forest paths and sometimes along the sides of roads where cars travel at high speed. Fortunately by the time I had my second cafe con leche the world was looking to be a better place. The suggested route for the day was a 33 km leg. I got there by 2:30 had an hour long break and decided that the sea was calling me. It was only 19 km more so off I headed for a glorious walk on my own. Fields of purple and yellow wildflowers and the scent of thyme made the walk spectacular. Quite high up at this point and surrounded by wind turbines it was indeed very windy. For the first time in this trip I had to use my scarf to hold down my wide-brimmed hat. Feeling somewhat like Little Bo-peep on I walked. When I first caught sight of the ocean I was ecstatic. The extra mileage was totally worth it. I arrived in Cee, had a lovely walk along the waters edge and a delicious long sleep.
Sunday - Finesterre. 19 km. The walk into Finisterre was beautiful. I stopped first in Cee for a coffee then walked 2.5 km to next town and stopped for a second coffee this time on a terrace overlooking the sea. After getting a bed and having my clothes washed in a machine ( a pilgrim luxury) I walked the final 3.5 km to what was once known as 'the end of the earth' in medieval times. The walk toward the faro was emotional as I sensed the end of a very long journey. After spending some quiet time overlooking the ocean I walked back to the alburgue and down to the beach for a long barefoot walk letting the waves soothe my feet and ankles.
Finisterre is a tourist hub and in that sense a little bit of an odd ending to the journey I have been on. Four tour buses passed me on the way down from the lighthouse.
Tomorrow I plan to walk on to Muxia a 29 km journey (or 31 km depending what map you read) before I take an early morning bus on Tuesday back to Santiago to meet Qi. It will be my first wheeled transportation in over a month.

3 comments:

  1. Oh, I'm so glad you're still walking. I feel like I'm traveling with you and the journey is still on. Sounds like you're having a grand time. Enjoy your last day of solo walking and have fun with Qi for the rest of your trip.
    It's funny. When you first mentioned "Finisterre", I did think it meant "where the earth ends" (it's close to French) but I wasn't entirely sure. Now I know. Next time you want to see another place where the earth ends, go to Finistère in France. It's the westernmost region in France, hence the name as well.
    I'm looking forward to seeing you when you get back.

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  2. I am posting retrospectively, Suzanne, as I was busy with retirement stuff last week.

    I have enjoyed reading of your travels and look forward to hearing more details on your return.

    Nancy

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  3. Does seem kind weird having it end. The ups and downs of adjusting along your merry way. Poopie about your stay and not feeling connected but honestly in my eyes I cannot begin to fathom you not fitting in anywhere ;) I bet that sea was great on those hard walking feet!
    It's now Wednesday and I believe you and Qi should be connected by now.
    I to am looking forward to your return my friend. Big time!

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