Finisterre to Muxia along the Costa da Morte (Coast of Death) called this because of the high loss of life in shipwrecks from days gone by and more recently from oil spills. It is hard to find words that do justice to the beauty of the coast and to this part of the walk. The serenity of this section was a welcome change from the busyness of Finisterre. There were many small villages along the way but not one cafe. Lots of farm land, wandering dogs and thin cats. It was an easy walk with only one hill to speak of, green forest and the occasional cow. I did make a wrong turn just a few km from town. After crossing a small creek while balancing on a fallen tree (walking sticks are wonderful) I soon realized that the field I was in was not the path. I could see signs of trails so I trekked on. After climbing over a stonewall which I realized might not have been the best idea out in the middle of nowhere, I decided I was in too deep now to turn around. It occurred to me that the trails I saw may have been animal trails, not human's, as they got smaller with every step. After climbing over a second stonewall I was now in a field of thorny bushes, fortunately wearing long pants. Almost there now, one more wall and I was on the road. Which road I wasn't sure but a road nonetheless. A farmer in a nearby field directed me (in Spanish) to another road and in no time I was back on the trail.
Muxia is a small fishing village with a mix of very old stone homes and some newer buildings all mixed together. Town planning for lining up the streets has not been thought of. Each street is a different width, some big enough for cars, some not.
After performing my pilgrim chores done for the last time (hotels after this) I joined some pilgrims for cafe con leche at the seaside. Even though we had only passed on the walk, we sit together as old friends, very enjoyable. My reputation as a fast walker continues and a German couple describe my walking style as that of a sewing machine, we all laugh. The young couple are traveling with her parents who are celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary by having their 15th Camino walk, this time from Santiago to Muxia, some 120 km!
I'm off to watch the sun set. Buenos noches.
[948 km logged with the pack]
Monday 1 October 2012
Sunday 30 September 2012
Cee - 52 km, Finisterre 19 km
Saturday - Negreira to Cee 52 km. I started my walk feeling a little miserable in the morning. I stayed at a municipal albergue with people that I had no connection with. A group of young people that had been traveling together for weeks, a couple of quiet young men that looked like they hadn't washed their clothes in weeks and a loud man who had too much to drink (for too many days) complaining about the 'death of the Camino', criticizing pilgrims who use cell phones and listen to music. I walked through quiet forest paths and sometimes along the sides of roads where cars travel at high speed. Fortunately by the time I had my second cafe con leche the world was looking to be a better place. The suggested route for the day was a 33 km leg. I got there by 2:30 had an hour long break and decided that the sea was calling me. It was only 19 km more so off I headed for a glorious walk on my own. Fields of purple and yellow wildflowers and the scent of thyme made the walk spectacular. Quite high up at this point and surrounded by wind turbines it was indeed very windy. For the first time in this trip I had to use my scarf to hold down my wide-brimmed hat. Feeling somewhat like Little Bo-peep on I walked. When I first caught sight of the ocean I was ecstatic. The extra mileage was totally worth it. I arrived in Cee, had a lovely walk along the waters edge and a delicious long sleep.
Sunday - Finesterre. 19 km. The walk into Finisterre was beautiful. I stopped first in Cee for a coffee then walked 2.5 km to next town and stopped for a second coffee this time on a terrace overlooking the sea. After getting a bed and having my clothes washed in a machine ( a pilgrim luxury) I walked the final 3.5 km to what was once known as 'the end of the earth' in medieval times. The walk toward the faro was emotional as I sensed the end of a very long journey. After spending some quiet time overlooking the ocean I walked back to the alburgue and down to the beach for a long barefoot walk letting the waves soothe my feet and ankles.
Finisterre is a tourist hub and in that sense a little bit of an odd ending to the journey I have been on. Four tour buses passed me on the way down from the lighthouse.
Tomorrow I plan to walk on to Muxia a 29 km journey (or 31 km depending what map you read) before I take an early morning bus on Tuesday back to Santiago to meet Qi. It will be my first wheeled transportation in over a month.
Sunday - Finesterre. 19 km. The walk into Finisterre was beautiful. I stopped first in Cee for a coffee then walked 2.5 km to next town and stopped for a second coffee this time on a terrace overlooking the sea. After getting a bed and having my clothes washed in a machine ( a pilgrim luxury) I walked the final 3.5 km to what was once known as 'the end of the earth' in medieval times. The walk toward the faro was emotional as I sensed the end of a very long journey. After spending some quiet time overlooking the ocean I walked back to the alburgue and down to the beach for a long barefoot walk letting the waves soothe my feet and ankles.
Finisterre is a tourist hub and in that sense a little bit of an odd ending to the journey I have been on. Four tour buses passed me on the way down from the lighthouse.
Tomorrow I plan to walk on to Muxia a 29 km journey (or 31 km depending what map you read) before I take an early morning bus on Tuesday back to Santiago to meet Qi. It will be my first wheeled transportation in over a month.
Friday 28 September 2012
Negreira -23 km Camino Finisterre
I'm on the road again, this time walking from Santiago to Muxia (north of Finisterre). As many of you likely know my good friend Qi will be joining me next Tuesday when we will walk from Santiago to Finisterre before we visit Portugal. Since I arrived in Santiago a week ahead of schedule I had the choice of either traveling around in a more conventional manner before Qi arrives, basically being a tourist in Spain or continuing to walk. Since I am in walking mode, and clearly not outfitted for swanky city living I decided to keep walking, pretty much my favorite thing to do anyway.
This part of Spain, known as Galicia is quite different from earlier days. I'm sitting at an outdoor cafe on a busy corner where it must be rush hour as an endless stream of traffic goes by. Other pilgrims have come from many different routes, not just the Camino Frances that I took. I have seen no familiar faces since I began earlier today. I have heard that only 1% of pilgrims actually continue on to Finisterre, though it seems busy enough as the municipal alberque that I am staying in was full about an hour after I arrived.
The weather in Galicia is known to be misty, with frequent rain, as I discovered earlier this week on my walk toward Santiago. Today is gloriously sunny, with a strong breeze that seemed to have whipped up after I arrived in Negreira. This is a good thing for a pilgrim because it pretty much ensures that your clothes will dry. This fact reminds me that the life of a pilgrim is a simple one. With the only daily concern being to walk, find a bed, shower, do laundry and eat, life has much fewer details to worry about. It makes me wonder why I spend time when at home, worrying over so many little things. I make a promise to myself to be mindful of this when I resume a non-pilgrim lifestyle.
Being a pilgrim allows one to take pleasure in the most simple things: a hot shower after a walk (you often hear people moaning in the shower, it's hard not to laugh sometimes), a cup of coffee and food to replenish your hungry body, a pillow to lay your head on, these are luxuries for a pilgrim. Oh, I forgot to mention the pleasure of finding wifi so the pilgrim can pass on the experience :-).
I haven't decided how far to go tomorrow, this part of the Camino has bigger gaps between the towns and villages and in this case a long stretch without food. I'll let you know how I make out when I find wifi again.
A big congratulations to all of the CRR Army runners and good luck to those running PEC this weekend!
This part of Spain, known as Galicia is quite different from earlier days. I'm sitting at an outdoor cafe on a busy corner where it must be rush hour as an endless stream of traffic goes by. Other pilgrims have come from many different routes, not just the Camino Frances that I took. I have seen no familiar faces since I began earlier today. I have heard that only 1% of pilgrims actually continue on to Finisterre, though it seems busy enough as the municipal alberque that I am staying in was full about an hour after I arrived.
The weather in Galicia is known to be misty, with frequent rain, as I discovered earlier this week on my walk toward Santiago. Today is gloriously sunny, with a strong breeze that seemed to have whipped up after I arrived in Negreira. This is a good thing for a pilgrim because it pretty much ensures that your clothes will dry. This fact reminds me that the life of a pilgrim is a simple one. With the only daily concern being to walk, find a bed, shower, do laundry and eat, life has much fewer details to worry about. It makes me wonder why I spend time when at home, worrying over so many little things. I make a promise to myself to be mindful of this when I resume a non-pilgrim lifestyle.
Being a pilgrim allows one to take pleasure in the most simple things: a hot shower after a walk (you often hear people moaning in the shower, it's hard not to laugh sometimes), a cup of coffee and food to replenish your hungry body, a pillow to lay your head on, these are luxuries for a pilgrim. Oh, I forgot to mention the pleasure of finding wifi so the pilgrim can pass on the experience :-).
I haven't decided how far to go tomorrow, this part of the Camino has bigger gaps between the towns and villages and in this case a long stretch without food. I'll let you know how I make out when I find wifi again.
A big congratulations to all of the CRR Army runners and good luck to those running PEC this weekend!
Wednesday 26 September 2012
Monte do Gozo - 66 km, Santiago - 6.6 km
Tuesday - Monte de Gozo 66 km. The day started off innocently enough with the intention of walking 31 km to Arzua. The weather forecast rain during the day so my walking companion and I had decided to sleep early and rise early to miss some of the predicted rain. My head hit the pillow at 8:15 pm (Monday), in less than a minute I was fast asleep until my alarm sounded at 4:30 am. I jumped out of bed, eager to be ready on time and proudly emerged dressed and packed in ten minutes flat. It was only then that I heard the sound of pouring rain lashing against the window. Back to bed for an hour (not such a hardship) and we set off an hour later in light rain. The walk went well, up and down hills, light rain for the first 24 km and fairly heavy rain for an hour. We landed in Arzua before noon, wet but happy. You see where this going.... Since we were wet already and it was still quite early we decided to go 16 more kms. Not long after we started the rain began in earnest. We walked on through beautiful forest paths. Though I had expected to be among many pilgrims during the usually busy last 100 km, we practically had the walk to ourselves, very unusual. (The last 100 k is what is required to receive the Compestela.) What we didn't know was that an alburgue housing 120 pilgrims had been closed down due to the dreaded bed bugs which explained why all of the places we stopped at for a bed were full. We walked on eventually realizing that we needed to prepare ourselves mentally for the full walk to Santiago, if we came across a place before Santiago that would only be a bonus. Not only were there hardly any pilgrims on The Way but there were hardly any cafes or villages as I had expected as we got closer. Hungry, at 6:00 pm we came across a fancy restaurant/hotel (also full) that seemed like a perfect place to have some food to refuel for the remaining approximately 15 km walk (we weren't exactly sure where we were but knew that we were just shy of 55 km, GPS info). I reviewed the menu and ordered food, feeling lucky to have found somewhere to eat at the right time. When the waiter said the kitchen was closed - Ahhh, yes, then I remembered, I'm in Spain, it is still siesta time! A bag of chips, a pear from my pack and a hunk of two day old bread and we're on our way.
The walk was quite hilly, though I still felt strong. The occasional sharp pain in my foot and knee I took only as a small protest from the body, nothing came of it. By the time we reached a large alburgue at Monte de Gozo just on the edge of Santiago we decided to check for a bed since it was about to get dark and we didn't have a room in the city which could have meant even more unexpected mileage. Fortunately the alburgue can hold 400 people and we were happy to get a bed, have a shower and hang wet clothes anywhere we could. I slept well, with my coat on, until 7:00 am.
Wednesday - Santiago 6.6 km
The short walk into the city center was exciting. I stopped for two cafe con leche and a chocolate croissant on the way to receive my Compestela. Reaching the cathedral made my heart pound and I was surprised to feel such excitement as I climbed the stairs to be guided into the office where you are asked if you walked the whole way, you must show your credential containing stamps from all of the places you stayed and explain briefly why you made the walk. The kind woman asked me if it was very hard? I stumbled to answer at first because I enjoyed it so much I find it difficult to say it was hard, but then I remember feeling that the hard part was deciding to go, wondering if I could make all of the arrangements necessary to leave, figuring out how to choose and pack everything I would need for a month that was light enough for me to carry, traveling alone in a foreign country, this was the difficult part. I can't tell the woman that as I stand silent for a moment with my thoughts, so instead I say, "Yes, sometimes it was difficult" and I leave it at that. She smiled warmly and nodded, "Yes, congratulations, you've done it". I have my Compestela stowed safely in a tube and I feel proud to have received it.
Afterwards I find a room with a single bed, my very own bathroom and a lovely small balcony that overlooks a busy square not far from the cathedral. The Mass at the cathedral was moving and emotional even though I am neither catholic nor particularly religious. I will stay here in this lovely city for two nights before making my next move. I have until Tuesday before Qi arrives to join me.
Thanks again for coming with me on this walk. It isn't finished as I will likely walk more before and after Qi comes. I'll keep you posted.
The walk was quite hilly, though I still felt strong. The occasional sharp pain in my foot and knee I took only as a small protest from the body, nothing came of it. By the time we reached a large alburgue at Monte de Gozo just on the edge of Santiago we decided to check for a bed since it was about to get dark and we didn't have a room in the city which could have meant even more unexpected mileage. Fortunately the alburgue can hold 400 people and we were happy to get a bed, have a shower and hang wet clothes anywhere we could. I slept well, with my coat on, until 7:00 am.
Wednesday - Santiago 6.6 km
The short walk into the city center was exciting. I stopped for two cafe con leche and a chocolate croissant on the way to receive my Compestela. Reaching the cathedral made my heart pound and I was surprised to feel such excitement as I climbed the stairs to be guided into the office where you are asked if you walked the whole way, you must show your credential containing stamps from all of the places you stayed and explain briefly why you made the walk. The kind woman asked me if it was very hard? I stumbled to answer at first because I enjoyed it so much I find it difficult to say it was hard, but then I remember feeling that the hard part was deciding to go, wondering if I could make all of the arrangements necessary to leave, figuring out how to choose and pack everything I would need for a month that was light enough for me to carry, traveling alone in a foreign country, this was the difficult part. I can't tell the woman that as I stand silent for a moment with my thoughts, so instead I say, "Yes, sometimes it was difficult" and I leave it at that. She smiled warmly and nodded, "Yes, congratulations, you've done it". I have my Compestela stowed safely in a tube and I feel proud to have received it.
Afterwards I find a room with a single bed, my very own bathroom and a lovely small balcony that overlooks a busy square not far from the cathedral. The Mass at the cathedral was moving and emotional even though I am neither catholic nor particularly religious. I will stay here in this lovely city for two nights before making my next move. I have until Tuesday before Qi arrives to join me.
Thanks again for coming with me on this walk. It isn't finished as I will likely walk more before and after Qi comes. I'll keep you posted.
Monday 24 September 2012
Portomarin - 34 km, Palas de Rei - 27 km
Sunday - Samos to Portomarin 34 km. We rose early to walk at 6:00 am, I had a restless night and was up since 4:00 am. The chorus of snoring seems to wake me sometimes more than others, I wonder if I've had too many cafe con leches? After packing to go we soon realize that the rain is coming down so hard there is no point in going until closer to sunrise, so instead we don the rain gear and walk 20 meters to the cafe to wait it out. This is the first rain of my journey. By 7:30 am we walk. The long johns I chose to wear for the first time on this trip seem like a good idea for about 20 minutes until we start walking so fast all I can think about is finding a place to shed them. Sarria was the first stop around 9:30 am at a bar/cafe. Two young men arrive at the bar to refresh their drinks ( I remind you this is before 10:00 am on a Sunday morning.) They are so inebriated they can hardly talk, when they sit down at the table with us, we smiled and packed up our bags to continue the journey. Rain comes and goes and huge wind gusts rustle the trees so much I was a little afraid of flying branches. As we crossed a very long bridge into Portomarin the wind gusts were so strong I had to brace myself and take double steps to get my balance more than once. Later when we checked the weather we see that there had been 80 km/hr winds! After reaching the town square pilgrims mill about saying all the alburgues are full and we'll probably have to walk on another 8 km. Fortunately we found a lovely place on the edge of town, shopped and cooked a meal in the alburgue kitchen. There are small skirmishes in the kitchen as many pilgrims vie for pots and pans to cook with. Alas, a lovely group meal was enjoyed with my Camino friends.
Monday - Palas de Rei 27 km. With only two days to Santiago (all going well) I have finally figured out how to creep out of the alburgue without making noise. This makes me smile. The weather has changed abruptly over the past two days, no more hot afternoons, this does make the walking easier. A Camino friend and I opt to share a room with two beds instead of face another alberque with up to 100+ people in one room. Santiago is closer and I'm both looking forward to being there and sad to be so close. Somehow I find it hard to imagine getting up and not walking. I'm addicted to the routine after only three weeks and it seems like there is no better way to spend a day. I miss running however and look forward to shedding my pack so that I can see how it feels to run after a month off. It makes me smile to think that I'm going to run a marathon in November without actually training and also when I a realize that I'm so conditioned to looking for the yellow arrows that point The Way I'll be searching for them when I'm home. [752 km to date]
Monday - Palas de Rei 27 km. With only two days to Santiago (all going well) I have finally figured out how to creep out of the alburgue without making noise. This makes me smile. The weather has changed abruptly over the past two days, no more hot afternoons, this does make the walking easier. A Camino friend and I opt to share a room with two beds instead of face another alberque with up to 100+ people in one room. Santiago is closer and I'm both looking forward to being there and sad to be so close. Somehow I find it hard to imagine getting up and not walking. I'm addicted to the routine after only three weeks and it seems like there is no better way to spend a day. I miss running however and look forward to shedding my pack so that I can see how it feels to run after a month off. It makes me smile to think that I'm going to run a marathon in November without actually training and also when I a realize that I'm so conditioned to looking for the yellow arrows that point The Way I'll be searching for them when I'm home. [752 km to date]
Saturday 22 September 2012
O Cebreiro - 29.5 km, Samos - 34 km
Friday - O Cebreiro 29.5 km, I had a magical day on the top of O Cebreiro. The weather was perfect for the task of climbing, a bit of sun and occasionally cloudy.The climb was steady at first until at La Faba it became a very steep and rocky trail. My walking partner for the day was a young pilgrim less than half my age (as was pointed out during the climb). We attacked the steep sections with gusto. Sweating and puffing my way up that climb was energizing. Loving every minute of it I was also very thankful that there were some less steep sections to allow my heart a few moments to recover before it had to work hard again. The view up the mountain was beautiful and somewhat daunting as it seemed almost impossible to think that we could actually be climbing to the top. Lush green fields all around, and tractors that looked so small your brain tells you it must surely be a toy. We stopped at the last rest place to refill water bottles and have an electrolyte drink, ready for the final 2.5 km ascent. As it turned out the hardest part was done and before we knew it we were at the top enjoying spectacular views all around. The energy in the small village was enchanting as many happy pilgrim's wandered about, some limping others looking exhausted but all looking satisfied and happy to have arrived. After the usual shower, laundry routine I enjoyed a hot bowl of delicious potatoe soup and the sunny afternoon sitting outside drinking cafe con leche chatting with pilgrims about their respective journeys. (I had a sore tendon above my foot for a few hours but after I rested it seemed to forgive me and stopped hurting. This seems to be a common pilgrim injury.) A wonderful dinner with agroup of pilgrims ended a perfect day for me atop O Cebreio.
The nighttime sleep went less well with a busy room full of pilgrims, some snoring, others rising at 3:00 am to pack and walk for the day. Onward.
Saturday - Samos 34km. The walk to Samos was more challenging than expected. Somehow I imagined an easy-ish descent after another small climb. Perhaps it was the lack of sleep but the walk seemed more difficult than I anticipated. The pilgrim route was very busy until a small group of us headed toward Samos, a small diversion before reaching the next bigger town along The Way. It was good to be on the less crowded, shady and picturesque route to Samos.
... I have to continue later as I'm heading out of wifi zone into the first rainy day I've had. Squelch, squelch.
The nighttime sleep went less well with a busy room full of pilgrims, some snoring, others rising at 3:00 am to pack and walk for the day. Onward.
Saturday - Samos 34km. The walk to Samos was more challenging than expected. Somehow I imagined an easy-ish descent after another small climb. Perhaps it was the lack of sleep but the walk seemed more difficult than I anticipated. The pilgrim route was very busy until a small group of us headed toward Samos, a small diversion before reaching the next bigger town along The Way. It was good to be on the less crowded, shady and picturesque route to Samos.
... I have to continue later as I'm heading out of wifi zone into the first rainy day I've had. Squelch, squelch.
Thursday 20 September 2012
Villafranca del Bierzo - 42.5 km
There is a good reason for the marathon distance today. Tomorrow will be the last very big climb on the Camino, up a mountain called O Cebreiro. The weather prediction was for rain on Saturday, so a decision was made to walk to the base of the mountain today hoping for good weather tomorrow during the climb.
The Camino is changing as we get closer to Santiago. Buildings and homes are more modern and certainly the towns and villages are more populated. More people have joined the route as new pilgrims start in Burgos and Leon. There are many new faces every day. I'm staying in a place called Ave Fenix, it is funky and friendly. (It was also among the very last rooms in town as we arrived late). A pleasant walk around the town looking for the food market lead me to beautiful garden among streets that seem to go off in all directions. I did find my way back to the alburgue but it was a bit of a fluke. We ate a communal dinner with delicious chickpea soup, salad and fried egg with melon for dessert. As I was sitting on my bed packing for the morning a cat brushed up against my leg, somewhat of a surprise. The man above me is snoring softly and people mill about as the curfew approaches. I'm hoping for a reasonable night sleep before an early morning start. My quads are a little sore from the steep downhills over the past two days ( and perhaps from the steep climb and high mileage :-). Thanks for following me on my journey.
The Camino is changing as we get closer to Santiago. Buildings and homes are more modern and certainly the towns and villages are more populated. More people have joined the route as new pilgrims start in Burgos and Leon. There are many new faces every day. I'm staying in a place called Ave Fenix, it is funky and friendly. (It was also among the very last rooms in town as we arrived late). A pleasant walk around the town looking for the food market lead me to beautiful garden among streets that seem to go off in all directions. I did find my way back to the alburgue but it was a bit of a fluke. We ate a communal dinner with delicious chickpea soup, salad and fried egg with melon for dessert. As I was sitting on my bed packing for the morning a cat brushed up against my leg, somewhat of a surprise. The man above me is snoring softly and people mill about as the curfew approaches. I'm hoping for a reasonable night sleep before an early morning start. My quads are a little sore from the steep downhills over the past two days ( and perhaps from the steep climb and high mileage :-). Thanks for following me on my journey.
Wednesday 19 September 2012
Astorga - 32 km, El Acebo - 39 km
Tuesday to Astorga - Villadangos was a noisy and difficult night's sleep in the municipal alburgue where 27 beds filled one room. I was happy to wake up early and start walking by 6:20 am. The road route was also noisy for the first 11 km walking beside a highway full of trucks so the pace was fast. Once we reached the beautiful town of Hospital de Orbigo we had a welcome one hour stop on a balcony overlooking a famous 20 arch stone bridge, 204 m long. There is barely any water running under the bridge as is the case in many of Spain's bridges, rivers seem to have dried up.
The remaining 21 km on the "walkers' route" to Astorga was a welcome change from the earlier noisy route. Astorga is a lovely city with beautiful churchs and a Gaudi church as well. The albergue had a foot bath in the courtyard to soak your feet in, filled with salt and vinegar, heavenly. To cap it off I slept blissfully for nine hours which led to....
Wednesday - 39 km. though my walking partners and I intended to go 27 km to Foncebadon we felt so good walking up the hills we decided to carry on. This meant that we passed the famous Cruz De Ferro where pilgrims lay down a stone brought from home, some say to leave your sins behind, others leave their problems. It was a moving experience. There is also a sundial there where you can stand on a brass plate and your shadow tells you the exact time.
The walk was challenging and exhilarating. El Acebo is a pleasant stone village full of wandering friendly dogs and a wonderful B&B for vegetarians. I treated myself for the night and am happily stuffed after a spectacular meal.
Buenos noches.
The remaining 21 km on the "walkers' route" to Astorga was a welcome change from the earlier noisy route. Astorga is a lovely city with beautiful churchs and a Gaudi church as well. The albergue had a foot bath in the courtyard to soak your feet in, filled with salt and vinegar, heavenly. To cap it off I slept blissfully for nine hours which led to....
Wednesday - 39 km. though my walking partners and I intended to go 27 km to Foncebadon we felt so good walking up the hills we decided to carry on. This meant that we passed the famous Cruz De Ferro where pilgrims lay down a stone brought from home, some say to leave your sins behind, others leave their problems. It was a moving experience. There is also a sundial there where you can stand on a brass plate and your shadow tells you the exact time.
The walk was challenging and exhilarating. El Acebo is a pleasant stone village full of wandering friendly dogs and a wonderful B&B for vegetarians. I treated myself for the night and am happily stuffed after a spectacular meal.
Buenos noches.
Monday 17 September 2012
The Meseta to the Mountains
Hola! Thanks for your concern about my whereabouts. I am fit and well. I have been walking in the Meseta, in fairly remote locations without any wifi at the alburgues I have stayed in. I occasionally had wifi in cafes but inevitably wound up speaking to other pilgrims with no time to blog. For the record this is where I've been since Fromista: Carrion de Los Condes - 23 km, Terradillos de las Templarios - 28 km, Calzadillo de Los Hermandillos - 29 km, Puente Villarente - 30 km, Villadangos del Paramo 36 km.
For the most part the Meseta has been flat and hot, though the mornings are cool requiring coats and gloves by the afternoon it can be very hot. Last Friday one of my walking partners suddenly became injured with a swollen area on the front of her leg near her foot. By the time we stopped 3 km from our rest stop she couldn't walk anymore. I stayed with her while another pilgrim went to drop his bag and come back for hers. Just as we were set to hobble on to the albergue, holding Annika upright, Camino luck struck again and a van pulled up that carries pilgrim backpacks for weary pilgrims (8€ a day). The driver agreed to take Annika and her pack to the rest stop. Unfortunately she has not recovered and has had to taxi, train, walk a little and bus since then.
On Saturday morning I walked to Sahagun and spent some time touring the small city and the Saturday morning market. After a pleasant stroll around I set off around 11:30 am for the remaining 16 km walk. I chose the Roman Route for "fit" walkers over the easier Road Route (how could I resist). for 9 km in baking sun I traversed a large rocky stretch of Roman Route. Loose large stones rolling under your feet while carrying a backpack is, I discovered, a challenge. When I reached the Municipal albergue a kind man greeted me with a glass of cold lemonade. I chugged it in 2 seconds flat, he laughed and poured me another. After lifting my backpack off me he was kind enough to massage my shoulders. Though I had wanted to find out if they had wifi before I took a bed I was by now in love with the place and ready to stay. The small town of 86 people celebrated a wedding that night with, I think, all 86 people at the wedding. Fireworks and lots of fire crackers marked the occasion. It was a delight.
I set off in the morning for a continuation of the Roman Road, 24 km of loose large rocks, no houses, no villages, just fields. Fortunately I met TJ and Tessa from Calgary and walked a good deal of the way with them. I was never so happy to reach concrete in my life. I have done the Roman Road and survived, I plan to never do it again :-). The next 6 km were a piece of cake once I had my cafe con leche.
I will be heading toward Astorga tomorrow and back to the mountains. I'll be happy to do some climbing again. I've logged over 500km and somehow I can't really fathom that. I look at a map of Spain and can hardly believe I've walked that far. The routine of the day is pleasant and familiar.
Buenos noches. I wish you all well.
For the most part the Meseta has been flat and hot, though the mornings are cool requiring coats and gloves by the afternoon it can be very hot. Last Friday one of my walking partners suddenly became injured with a swollen area on the front of her leg near her foot. By the time we stopped 3 km from our rest stop she couldn't walk anymore. I stayed with her while another pilgrim went to drop his bag and come back for hers. Just as we were set to hobble on to the albergue, holding Annika upright, Camino luck struck again and a van pulled up that carries pilgrim backpacks for weary pilgrims (8€ a day). The driver agreed to take Annika and her pack to the rest stop. Unfortunately she has not recovered and has had to taxi, train, walk a little and bus since then.
On Saturday morning I walked to Sahagun and spent some time touring the small city and the Saturday morning market. After a pleasant stroll around I set off around 11:30 am for the remaining 16 km walk. I chose the Roman Route for "fit" walkers over the easier Road Route (how could I resist). for 9 km in baking sun I traversed a large rocky stretch of Roman Route. Loose large stones rolling under your feet while carrying a backpack is, I discovered, a challenge. When I reached the Municipal albergue a kind man greeted me with a glass of cold lemonade. I chugged it in 2 seconds flat, he laughed and poured me another. After lifting my backpack off me he was kind enough to massage my shoulders. Though I had wanted to find out if they had wifi before I took a bed I was by now in love with the place and ready to stay. The small town of 86 people celebrated a wedding that night with, I think, all 86 people at the wedding. Fireworks and lots of fire crackers marked the occasion. It was a delight.
I set off in the morning for a continuation of the Roman Road, 24 km of loose large rocks, no houses, no villages, just fields. Fortunately I met TJ and Tessa from Calgary and walked a good deal of the way with them. I was never so happy to reach concrete in my life. I have done the Roman Road and survived, I plan to never do it again :-). The next 6 km were a piece of cake once I had my cafe con leche.
I will be heading toward Astorga tomorrow and back to the mountains. I'll be happy to do some climbing again. I've logged over 500km and somehow I can't really fathom that. I look at a map of Spain and can hardly believe I've walked that far. The routine of the day is pleasant and familiar.
Buenos noches. I wish you all well.
Wednesday 12 September 2012
Burgos 42km-Hontanas 34km-Formista 36.7 km
Hola! Another good day of walking. Three days in a row of fairly high mileage.
Monday - I left Villafranca after 8:00 am and a glorious sleep-in I headed happily up a big hill for a 12 km forest hike to San Juan de Ortega. On the way I met Salvatore and his friend. He had helped me with a blister and now he needed food, having eaten too little in the morning. I was able to share crackers and peanut butter, they were very grateful. It felt good to return a good deed.
I had intended to walk about 25 km but couldn't find the alburgue that I had agreed to meet some friends at. I pressed on, unsure if I was in the right place heading into a large city called Burgos another 15 km at least. A stroke of Camino luck and I met a woman from a couple of days ago, we continued the adventure together. Somehow we missed the sought after riverview road and instead slogged through back alleys and abandoned buildings, wondering at times if someone had played a joke and painted yellow arrows (Camino signs). With sore feet we stopped on a grass verge, covered in dust and looking somewhat out of place in the city landscape. When we finally reached the municipal alburgue which houses 178 pilgrims we were shocked to learn that it was full. More Camino luck and I met two other pilgrims I know from a few days ago and we shared a room in a nearby hostel - shower, laundry, dinner and bed.
Tuesday - my new roommates / walking partners and I headed out of Burgos around 6:30 am. Though my walking partners are very fit and very fast, we do stop regularly for a cafe con leche and a smoke... I partake in the former, not the latter. I enjoyed soaking my feet in a famous spring at Arroya San Bol, thought to heal your blisters for the balance of the Camino. The ice cold water made my feet feel divine. Arriving in Hontanas felt like arriving at a big party. The small town was alive with excited pilgrim's happy to be done their walk and energetic Italian cyclists that were hooting and howling for at least an hour. Henri has a gps that noted the 34 km distance. I slept well.
Wednesday - the highlight of today was 1005 m 12% grade hill. Great workout and a great view. The pack feels good now, and the walking is part of the routine. 36.7 km
Tomorrow will be a less than 20 km day, this time for sure. :-)
P.s. feet are now doing well. Cross your fingers for me that it stays that way :-) Buen Camino
Monday - I left Villafranca after 8:00 am and a glorious sleep-in I headed happily up a big hill for a 12 km forest hike to San Juan de Ortega. On the way I met Salvatore and his friend. He had helped me with a blister and now he needed food, having eaten too little in the morning. I was able to share crackers and peanut butter, they were very grateful. It felt good to return a good deed.
I had intended to walk about 25 km but couldn't find the alburgue that I had agreed to meet some friends at. I pressed on, unsure if I was in the right place heading into a large city called Burgos another 15 km at least. A stroke of Camino luck and I met a woman from a couple of days ago, we continued the adventure together. Somehow we missed the sought after riverview road and instead slogged through back alleys and abandoned buildings, wondering at times if someone had played a joke and painted yellow arrows (Camino signs). With sore feet we stopped on a grass verge, covered in dust and looking somewhat out of place in the city landscape. When we finally reached the municipal alburgue which houses 178 pilgrims we were shocked to learn that it was full. More Camino luck and I met two other pilgrims I know from a few days ago and we shared a room in a nearby hostel - shower, laundry, dinner and bed.
Tuesday - my new roommates / walking partners and I headed out of Burgos around 6:30 am. Though my walking partners are very fit and very fast, we do stop regularly for a cafe con leche and a smoke... I partake in the former, not the latter. I enjoyed soaking my feet in a famous spring at Arroya San Bol, thought to heal your blisters for the balance of the Camino. The ice cold water made my feet feel divine. Arriving in Hontanas felt like arriving at a big party. The small town was alive with excited pilgrim's happy to be done their walk and energetic Italian cyclists that were hooting and howling for at least an hour. Henri has a gps that noted the 34 km distance. I slept well.
Wednesday - the highlight of today was 1005 m 12% grade hill. Great workout and a great view. The pack feels good now, and the walking is part of the routine. 36.7 km
Tomorrow will be a less than 20 km day, this time for sure. :-)
P.s. feet are now doing well. Cross your fingers for me that it stays that way :-) Buen Camino
Tuesday 11 September 2012
Quick update on Wednesday morning
Hola! I'm having a quick morning coffe break with wifi and thought I would give you a quick update. On Monday I walked 42 km to Borgos arriving around 4:30 pm to find the alburgue full fortunately I met two pilgrim's to share a room with. Yesterday we walked to Hontonas 34 km. Up at 5:30 this morning and heading to Fromista 36 km away. I have found two pilgrims that walk the same pace, Henri from Switzerland and Anika from Sweden. We have a big climb coming up today. I'm enjoying the walking, the company and the general routine of the day. Buena Camino. Hope to get wifi later.
Sunday 9 September 2012
2 of 2 posts -Villafranca 28 km Sunday
Hola! I had an excellent sleep and an excellent walk today. Though I planned to walk only 20 km I can't seem to stop myself and continued on for 28 km. My blister is better but not perfect. After shower and laundry I met a pilgrim that I keep seeing but haven't spoken to before. We shared our "what's hurting" stories. He has experience with blisters and was kind enough to tend to mine. He used the scissors from my small knife, applied antiseptic to the blades before cutting open the new blister to drain it. All of this done while drinking a cafe con leche (coffee with hot milk) in the bar adjacent to the alburgue. He put a fresh Compeed on my toe and it feels much better. I will give him a package of Biofreeze in exchange for his kindness, he has a sore knee.
I have met many new friends over the past two days, from Germany, Holland, Switzerland, New Zealand and Denmark. Thankfully for me, many speak English and others translate when necessary. I keep seeing a young man from France, he called me over today to take a picture of us huddled together. Two days ago when I passed him he said "Isn't it dangerous for your body to be walking so fast?" I laughed and told him I felt great.
I still have dinner to enjoy and an evening to relax. Thanks to all for walking with me on this journey. I thought of you all yesterday when my walk was difficult, willing me on to continue. Many thanks.
I have met many new friends over the past two days, from Germany, Holland, Switzerland, New Zealand and Denmark. Thankfully for me, many speak English and others translate when necessary. I keep seeing a young man from France, he called me over today to take a picture of us huddled together. Two days ago when I passed him he said "Isn't it dangerous for your body to be walking so fast?" I laughed and told him I felt great.
I still have dinner to enjoy and an evening to relax. Thanks to all for walking with me on this journey. I thought of you all yesterday when my walk was difficult, willing me on to continue. Many thanks.
1 of 2 posts - Sept 8 Granon -28 km + 1 km
I missed wifi yesterday hence 2 posts today. Saturday - a difficult day.
Though Spain sleeps from 3:00 -5:00 pm, apparently on Friday nights in Nejera many are awake from 3:00 -5:00 am. I wake early and feel "off " right from the beginning. I left the alburgue just before 7:00 am, one of the last pilgrims to leave. I wandered the streets looking for Camino signs and returned back to the alburgue twenty minutes later to ask for help. Two kind pilgrims come out in their stocking feet to show me the sign I missed. My walk feels different today, my pace is good but for the first time it feels like work. As I approach Santo Domingo famous for a 12th century cathedral and a legend involving a cock & hen I see large factories with only one car, many businesses closed on a Saturday (?). Houses look derelict and I wonder if I'm in a ghost town. I paid 2.50€ to wander around the cathedral and am 2 kilometers outside town before I realize that I was so taken with the architecture and artifacts that I completely forgot to look for the live cock & hen that is on display there. By now the sun is very hot. I mop the perspiration from my face several times and it lifts my spirits to think of Pedro and Mario smiling at the end of a run, I'm perspiring as much as they do.
This day, this walk, feels like a pilgrimage, I'm tired, I'm hurting and I'm hot and uncomfortable.
My toes on both feet start to feel like they are splitting open on the bottom. With each step on the gravel road an errant stone can cause sharp pain. I wonder if I should take my shoes off to look but decide against it, afraid of what I might see and knowing that there is nothing to be done about it anyway. By the time I reach Granon I am so happy that the church has space for me I consider throwing my self at the hospilatero's feet in gratitude but thankfully have enough sense left that I realize that would be overly dramatic. After a shower and laundry I finally look at my feet to discover my first ever blister, one in full bloom on the bottom of my toe and a second threatening on the other foot.
Two pilgrims tend to my blister, popping it and squeezing out the contents, then applying an antiseptic bandage from their own supply. This may make you squeamish to read but I'm taken with the kindness of strangers performing this very personal task.
We make dinner together, for 35, I attend my first catholic mass, sing for supper (no kidding) in front of 50 including onlookers from the town. As the sole Canadian I had to sing two songs solo. First I choose "Oh Canada" because at that moment every song I have ever known leaves my head, the second time I sing a rousing version of "if you are happy and you know it, clap your hands." Everyone seems to know it and joins in enthusiastically. My difficult day ends well. Such is the Camino.
Friday 7 September 2012
Logrono to Najera - 30 km
Hola! Great walk today after a great night's sleep and a little sleep-in I began my walk at 7:35 am. I like to walk quickly and this seems to have given me a bit of a reputation among the pilgrims. I met a few people along the way that said, "Oh, you must be that petite woman from Canada who walks quickly." (I explain that I'm a Roadrunner but I'm not sure everyone gets it.) So far so good, I felt great today, the pack seems good, well I should say my back is holding up with the weight.
Logrono is a large city and for the first time on this trip I felt just a little uneasy last night walking around. Signs of poverty in the old city and drug use are evident, people loiter with nothing else to do. The walk out of the city, mostly through parkland was pleasant. I missed the first coffee stop and wound up trekking 21 km before stopping for a delicious cafe con leche, it was so good and I'd waited so long I ordered two before walking the next 9 km to Nejere.
I see a lot of private vegetable gardens and notice that the fruit I buy daily is mostly grown locally. As an added bonus, unlike at home, the fruit size and color is not uniform indicating that it has not been bred to be the look-a-like assembly line fruit we have in North American supermarkets. It tastes great and I suspect it has been grown naturally.
A delicous paella dinner (thanks for the recommendation Terri) at a picturesque patio on the riverside, complete with live music and the good company of a Texan, an Aussie and a couple from South Africa rounded out a fantastic day. People share stories of their day and past travels around the world. It makes me want to travel more! Buenos noches.
Logrono is a large city and for the first time on this trip I felt just a little uneasy last night walking around. Signs of poverty in the old city and drug use are evident, people loiter with nothing else to do. The walk out of the city, mostly through parkland was pleasant. I missed the first coffee stop and wound up trekking 21 km before stopping for a delicious cafe con leche, it was so good and I'd waited so long I ordered two before walking the next 9 km to Nejere.
I see a lot of private vegetable gardens and notice that the fruit I buy daily is mostly grown locally. As an added bonus, unlike at home, the fruit size and color is not uniform indicating that it has not been bred to be the look-a-like assembly line fruit we have in North American supermarkets. It tastes great and I suspect it has been grown naturally.
A delicous paella dinner (thanks for the recommendation Terri) at a picturesque patio on the riverside, complete with live music and the good company of a Texan, an Aussie and a couple from South Africa rounded out a fantastic day. People share stories of their day and past travels around the world. It makes me want to travel more! Buenos noches.
Thursday 6 September 2012
Los Arcos to Logrono - 28 km
Hola! The weather is hot, the sky is clear and shade is sparse. Sleep was limited last night partly because I woke up hungry a couple of times. I made a point of eating more throughout the day though I'm not sure I have it right yet since it is one hour before the bedtime routine begins and I'm still a little hungry. The waist belt on my backpack can't be made tighter and my trousers seem to have expanded. More peanut butter and more pastries I decide as I write.
The terrain on the walk today was consistently different than earlier in the week. Fields of grapes seemed to cover most of the entire 28 km today. I passed a large section near Viana that had been burned out by recent wild fires, the smell of charred wood and vegetation was still strong. Once again I discovered that the elevation map I have does not indicate the number of hills. My map shows a route that is mostly downhill, and I guess it was in the same way that the Boston marathon is a net downhill, there are just a lot of ups and downs along the way. I'm not complaining, in fact I'm kind of pleased since I'm hoping it will be a substitute for the missed interval training I need to run the New York marathon in November. The hills, combined with the weight of the backpack certainly leave the heart a ticking at times. Today I thought of Long and Rick carrying weight while they traversed the 124 km of the Death Race. My hat is off to both of them.
Up until yesterday I was walking with a group (in various combinations) that I met at the beginning of the journey. As the days passed and we found our 'happy pace', people were dropping behind. I left the last of the group yesterday as I set my cruising speed to Santiago. Such is the life on the Camino, where new friends are discovered along the way.
I have to admit to feeling a pleasant level of fatigue today as well as a slightly less than pleasant ache in my feet. I plan one more 31 km jaunt tomorrow before I take a lower mileage day. It is interesting at the large alburgue I'm staying in to see all manner of people hobbling about, me included when I first got here. We sit outside on a patio now, winding down before bed, many smoking cigarettes to relax at the end of the day. Some play cards and lots are busy on their iPhones. :-)
p.s. I made some changes to the settings on the blog so those of you that wish to comment may do so more easily. (Thanks to Jennifer for the tips.) Thanks to all for your interest! Buenas noches.
The terrain on the walk today was consistently different than earlier in the week. Fields of grapes seemed to cover most of the entire 28 km today. I passed a large section near Viana that had been burned out by recent wild fires, the smell of charred wood and vegetation was still strong. Once again I discovered that the elevation map I have does not indicate the number of hills. My map shows a route that is mostly downhill, and I guess it was in the same way that the Boston marathon is a net downhill, there are just a lot of ups and downs along the way. I'm not complaining, in fact I'm kind of pleased since I'm hoping it will be a substitute for the missed interval training I need to run the New York marathon in November. The hills, combined with the weight of the backpack certainly leave the heart a ticking at times. Today I thought of Long and Rick carrying weight while they traversed the 124 km of the Death Race. My hat is off to both of them.
Up until yesterday I was walking with a group (in various combinations) that I met at the beginning of the journey. As the days passed and we found our 'happy pace', people were dropping behind. I left the last of the group yesterday as I set my cruising speed to Santiago. Such is the life on the Camino, where new friends are discovered along the way.
I have to admit to feeling a pleasant level of fatigue today as well as a slightly less than pleasant ache in my feet. I plan one more 31 km jaunt tomorrow before I take a lower mileage day. It is interesting at the large alburgue I'm staying in to see all manner of people hobbling about, me included when I first got here. We sit outside on a patio now, winding down before bed, many smoking cigarettes to relax at the end of the day. Some play cards and lots are busy on their iPhones. :-)
p.s. I made some changes to the settings on the blog so those of you that wish to comment may do so more easily. (Thanks to Jennifer for the tips.) Thanks to all for your interest! Buenas noches.
Wednesday 5 September 2012
Cirauqui to Los Arcos 36 km
I arose early to head out, in the dark, at 6:25 am today (I noticed the posts are showing Ottawa time, add 6 hours :-). My intention was to walk to Villamayor de Monjardin, a 24 km journey. The hitch was that there were only 25 beds at the alburgue, assigned on a first come first served basis and my chances would be good if I could get there by 1:00 pm. I walked over a Roman bridge and the best-preserved stretch of Roman road on the Camino, it is almost a little haunting to imagine all of the people, pilgrims and carts that would have travelled on these roads before me. I climbed more hills which seem to be absent from my elevation map, arriving in Villamayor before noon. Well, like a good Roadrunner I thought, "no sense sitting around all day", so I pressed on 12 km to the next town. What I didn't expect was: 1. It was the first hot day I've had. 2. It was the first day I've had a dusty track with no shade for the entire 12 km. 3. It was the first day I ran out of water with 6km to go. When I started to get a little dizzy, I used the last dribble of water I had left to mix up an electrolyte powder drink (thank you Neil). I arrived with dust literally up to my thighs, hungry as an ox and very glad to be here. A shower never felt so good and the food I inhaled never tasted so good. It all ended well and I'm sitting with my feet up, still smiling.
Buen Camino.
Buen Camino.
Cizur Menor to Cirauqui
Hola! Yesterday's 30 km trek across delightful countryside, up some very steep hills was excellent. I took a 3 km diversion to visit a 12th century Octagonal church, still in use, totally worth the extra kms. One last big climb into the town and I was relieved to be there. Once I entered the arches into the walled town I laughed when I saw nothing but steep cobblestone streets leading up to the alburgue. Apparently I did have a few more hills left in me. It was worth the climb. The alburgue had colorful floor tiles, bright colors and great mattresses. The host made an excellent dinner served in the basement rooms, beautiful stone walls and art work. Spinach soup (yumm, something green) and pasta with a specially made cheese omelette for the vegetarians among us. Topped with a Spanish dessert that tasted like a slightly sour custard, I think it helped me to sleep like a baby.
Monday 3 September 2012
Cizur Menor
Two great days of walking. My quads are starting to hurt and a kind lady at the alburgue wrapped my toe in gauze covered in a brown liquid, it feels good now. A little Biofreeze on my back and I'm a happy pilgrim. The scenery is outstanding, the landscape changes each day, as does the elevation and footing. A mix of soft paths, rocky down-hill sections, flagstones... Pretty much everything you can come across. So far it has been mostly cool weather, thankfully.
Dinner last night (small town, no restaurant) brown bread and nutella! After 27 km it was heavenly, but not as good as the peanut butter & nutella sandwich I ate for lunch today, that was the best sandwich I think I've eaten (no, I'm not being sarcastic, outdoors all day, lots of walking and I have a new perspective on many things).
Tonight's pilgrim dinner was great - fish, chickpeas and tiramisu.
I have met so many great people, I think that may be the best part of the Camino. Passersby in Pamplona wish pilgrims a Buen Camino, even though thousands of pilgrims must pass through each month. People take time to help each other, pilgrim or not.
I look forward to tomorrow's journey and hope for a good night's sleep, something that has been in short supply between a general level of excitement for being here, jet lag, random middle of the night fire alarms, and the ever present snoring chorus... I haven't figured out how to keep my earplugs in, they seem to pop out after I fall asleep(?)
Walk on!
Dinner last night (small town, no restaurant) brown bread and nutella! After 27 km it was heavenly, but not as good as the peanut butter & nutella sandwich I ate for lunch today, that was the best sandwich I think I've eaten (no, I'm not being sarcastic, outdoors all day, lots of walking and I have a new perspective on many things).
Tonight's pilgrim dinner was great - fish, chickpeas and tiramisu.
I have met so many great people, I think that may be the best part of the Camino. Passersby in Pamplona wish pilgrims a Buen Camino, even though thousands of pilgrims must pass through each month. People take time to help each other, pilgrim or not.
I look forward to tomorrow's journey and hope for a good night's sleep, something that has been in short supply between a general level of excitement for being here, jet lag, random middle of the night fire alarms, and the ever present snoring chorus... I haven't figured out how to keep my earplugs in, they seem to pop out after I fall asleep(?)
Walk on!
Saturday 1 September 2012
Hola from Roncesvalles
Today's breakfast was white bread with butter and jam and a bowl of coffee. The mist over the mountains was peaceful. I was thankful to have some Chia seeds and hemp to get me the next 18 km up the mountain, passing sheep and horses right next to the road. The view was so breathtaking it made me and many others feel weepy. I had a great walk and the backpack has been fine, so far so good. I found it a little heavy on the shoulders until I walked with Ally from Colorado who adjusted my straps, turns out Ally taught backpacking skills to youth in Colorado, how lucky was that!
The Alburque here is new and lovely. You sleep in pods of four, no doors, nice showers and laundry facilities. We were fortunate to arrive early, there were line ups all afternoon and once our sections was full people were sent to the overflow 13th century building made of stone. That area is one large room that holds 100 beds stacked close together. The pilgrim dinner was soup, trout , chips and yogurt. It is good to have food of any kind after being out all day. The walk today took 5 hours, followed by shower, laundry, more walking and lots of talking.
I feel very fortunate to be having such an amazing experience. There is a man making a documentary in our group so you may get to see some of it. He is 71 years old, carrying a backpack that weighs 17 kilos and he arrived shortly after me and he had been stopping along the way to film!
The Alburque here is new and lovely. You sleep in pods of four, no doors, nice showers and laundry facilities. We were fortunate to arrive early, there were line ups all afternoon and once our sections was full people were sent to the overflow 13th century building made of stone. That area is one large room that holds 100 beds stacked close together. The pilgrim dinner was soup, trout , chips and yogurt. It is good to have food of any kind after being out all day. The walk today took 5 hours, followed by shower, laundry, more walking and lots of talking.
I feel very fortunate to be having such an amazing experience. There is a man making a documentary in our group so you may get to see some of it. He is 71 years old, carrying a backpack that weighs 17 kilos and he arrived shortly after me and he had been stopping along the way to film!
We have another 10:00 curfew and aren't allowed to get up until 6:00 am. Buen Camino!
St Jean to Orisson
The last two days have been spectacular. I arrived in St Jean Pied de Port by train with many other excited pilgrims. The village is picturesque with cobblestone streets and quaint little shops. Time only for a quick dinner in order to be in bed and lights out before the 10:00 pm curfew (doors locked at 10:00). I fell asleep easily and was awakenedat 3:30 by a melodic chorus of snoring. After finding my earplugs I drifted off to sleep. The 8km walk up very steep terrain was delightful. I was thankful for the many runs in Gatineau park (thanks Qi) and for hills at the Arboretum. When I reached Orisson, a beautiful stone hostel with a spectacular view of the Pyrennes I was tempted to walk on, thankfully my walking partners convinced me to rest and within an hour I realized that was indeed a wise choice as I was tired and ready to drink in the quiet, the people and the delicious cafe au lait. At dinner each of the fifty pilgrims stood up to introduce themselves, where they were from, how far and how long they were to travel and who they were traveling with. Brazil, Spain, Canada, USA, Switzerland, Germany, holland, New zealand, Australia and England were all represented.
Thursday 30 August 2012
In Bordeaux waiting for a train
Bonjour. I made it safely to Bordeaux, and I'm sitting in a picturesque cafe across from the train station. I went for a short walk but the neighborhood appears a little sketchy as neighborhoods often do near train stations. Lots of iron bars on windows, sex shops and a peep show. Decided sitting at an outdoor cafe was a good choice. People are friendly, accept my limited French and are generally quite helpful.
I was delighted to see my hiking poles come through the baggage check unscathed. A good start to the journey.
Even though many things seem different here, lots of things are just the same as at home. iPhones everywhere you look, Ford cars and Hondas, burnt grass from a drought. I saw a great light rail system in Bordeaux, running up the middle of the street, grass covers the track bed except on intersections, it may be similar to the Byron strip/NCC proposedal by the city of Ottawa.
I'm off to catch my train, will buy a bottle of water first, can't find a fountain and given that you have to pay 0.50€ to use the toilet I doubt free water will be an option.
I am booked into a hostel in St Jean Pied de Port tonight, they have agreed to wait up for me... I feel very fortunate. My walk will begin tomorrow with a short 8 km climb in the Pyrennes to Orisson. Thanks to David & Michael for suggesting I break the first and most difficult day of walking into two sections while I recover from lack of sleep and jet lag.
Onward, my real journey is about to begin.
I was delighted to see my hiking poles come through the baggage check unscathed. A good start to the journey.
Even though many things seem different here, lots of things are just the same as at home. iPhones everywhere you look, Ford cars and Hondas, burnt grass from a drought. I saw a great light rail system in Bordeaux, running up the middle of the street, grass covers the track bed except on intersections, it may be similar to the Byron strip/NCC proposedal by the city of Ottawa.
I'm off to catch my train, will buy a bottle of water first, can't find a fountain and given that you have to pay 0.50€ to use the toilet I doubt free water will be an option.
I am booked into a hostel in St Jean Pied de Port tonight, they have agreed to wait up for me... I feel very fortunate. My walk will begin tomorrow with a short 8 km climb in the Pyrennes to Orisson. Thanks to David & Michael for suggesting I break the first and most difficult day of walking into two sections while I recover from lack of sleep and jet lag.
Onward, my real journey is about to begin.
Wednesday 29 August 2012
At the Airport
I'm now two hours from boarding and a little giddy at the airport. My backpack is less than 14 pounds, though I have to admit it feels a little heavy... nothing a little more training won't fix, it's okay I can start on Friday :-).
I don't think I have ever packed so little for so long, in fact, I think I usually carry more when I go away for the weekend. A big thanks to all who helped me to choose my belongings with care.
Many people ask, why do the Camino? At this stage, I am ready for the physical and mental challenge of the pilgrimage. Walking each day, carrying the pack will allow me to find my strength, I will not put words to the alternative. Living without the routine of my charmed life (friends, food, running, community) will open my thoughts to new ways of thinking. This is my hope, to learn something new of myself by engaging with my surroundings, while being outside of my comfort zone.
Thank you for the many well wishes I have received. You will be in my thoughts, willing me on!
Warmest regards,
Suzanne
I'm now two hours from boarding and a little giddy at the airport. My backpack is less than 14 pounds, though I have to admit it feels a little heavy... nothing a little more training won't fix, it's okay I can start on Friday :-).
I don't think I have ever packed so little for so long, in fact, I think I usually carry more when I go away for the weekend. A big thanks to all who helped me to choose my belongings with care.
Many people ask, why do the Camino? At this stage, I am ready for the physical and mental challenge of the pilgrimage. Walking each day, carrying the pack will allow me to find my strength, I will not put words to the alternative. Living without the routine of my charmed life (friends, food, running, community) will open my thoughts to new ways of thinking. This is my hope, to learn something new of myself by engaging with my surroundings, while being outside of my comfort zone.
Thank you for the many well wishes I have received. You will be in my thoughts, willing me on!
Warmest regards,
Suzanne
Friday 17 August 2012
12 Days to Lift Off
I'm excited to share my upcoming pilgrimage through Spain. Preparing for this journey is taking a little longer than I originally anticipated. At this point I'm trying not to panic, just like a good long run, I need to breathe and focus... and know that it will all work out.
Everything I need for about 44 days must fit into my backpack and be light enough that I can comfortably carry it for 25 to 30 km per day walking (expected days of walking: 34 total). Weigh scales are perched on the dining room table to remind me that every item counts, no matter how light it seems in the comfort of my home, it is important to assess if it is essential since I know that with every step the weight will become greater.
Everything I need for about 44 days must fit into my backpack and be light enough that I can comfortably carry it for 25 to 30 km per day walking (expected days of walking: 34 total). Weigh scales are perched on the dining room table to remind me that every item counts, no matter how light it seems in the comfort of my home, it is important to assess if it is essential since I know that with every step the weight will become greater.
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